Online Swordmakers page
Here are the names and e-mail addresses of swordmakers interested in e-mail correspondence with other online swordmakers.
Sample:
Me, Doug. mailto:swordman@netonecom.net. Daytime electrical machine controls design engineer; primary hobby making swords and hilts. Mainly hilts for SCA rapier fencing. I just make them for the fun of it, when I feel motivated. It's not a business. I've made 4 swords complete with blades. Three are rapiers and one is probably a cut-and-thrust with a triangular, pointed broadsword blade and cross hilt. I sawed the blades out of 3/16" thick 5160 and 1095 spring steel bar stock and ground the bevels with a belt grinder. Heat treating the blades was done by a commercial heat treater.
Hello I just found your page and thought I would pass on a few tips from my
experiences. I am a custom knifemaker and have made swords. I agree that 5160
is an excellent steel to use for swords, you can also try 1050, 1060, 1075,
1084 these are all plain carbon steels and will work well for swords.
First: at the juncture of the blade and tang it is a good idea to have a
smooth transition between the blade and tang. Use a round file to make a
smooth transition between tang and blade instead of a sharp angle. This will
greatly reduce stress and possible breakage if you are going to actually use
the sword.
Second: If you are going to thread on the pommel make sure you have at least
3/4"- 1" of thread for strength, and the tapped hole in the pommel should
match this. Think drill press, essential machine. Also I do not recommend
welding the tang to the blade for a sword as this introduces a good
opportunity for breakage at the point of the weld. This has to do with
harmonic vibration in the sword when you hit something.
Just a couple of tips, my opinions of course. If you have any questions let
me know. I might not be able to answer them but I can probably find someone
who will know.
Sincerely, B. R. Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
Then I asked him about publishing his email, and if he would take requests to make custom swords. Here's his answer:
You are very welcome and feel free to forward the requests. Lately that seems
to be the only swords I have made and the early medieval swords are the ones
I seem to be most interested in making. As for fantasy swords???????? just
depends on how much of a fantasy they are. I had one person ask if I could
make a forty pound sword, as he assured me that was what the original two
handed swords weighed. Needless to say that one doesn't exist except in his
mind. But I will give serious thought to any reasonable request. Also if you
have anybody who has questions about japanese swords I am a collector and
have at least some knowledge in the area.
Thanks for the correspondence
B.R. Tomberlin
anviltopp@aol.com
Rody said:
. I practically
have to start from scratch, exept for the stuff I know from school,
so any info is appreciated.
R.KOOPS@it.fnt.hvu.nl
And Ian says:
Please by all means quote the method if you like. I'd be interested
in any suggestions that people have that may improve the technique
My name is Scott From Australia. My questions are, if I make a sword from spring steel would it have to be tempered and
heat treated for re-enactment purposes.(I think it would be, but
just checking anyway.) And if I wanted to fuller the blade without
forging, what would you recommend be the best tools to use.
Thanks Scott.
Get your name put here!
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home --------- Click to --e-mail me and get your name added. ------ updated April 14, 2001